When guests ask me where to start in Malaga, I usually give the same answer: the Picasso Museum. Not because you have to tick the Picasso Museum in Malaga off a list, but because it tells two stories at once – the painter’s, born a few streets from here, and the city’s, all the way back to the Phoenicians. And it’s a three-minute walk from Casa Beatas, right in the old town – which is why we send our guests there almost every day.

Not a «greatest hits», a family collection

Most big Picasso museums line up the expected masterpieces. Malaga’s is different, and that’s what I love about it: its collection comes from the painter’s family, given to the city by Christine and Bernard Ruiz-Picasso. Some 285 works – paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics, prints – spanning almost eight decades, from his early academic exercises to the paintings of his final years.

You don’t follow a hit list, you follow a life. It’s more intimate, and often more surprising: you watch Picasso search, repeat himself, reinvent his skin. You come across early drawings as much as ceramics, sculptures and late canvases – enough to understand how a boy from Malaga became Picasso. Here I always suggest wandering rather than rushing: two hours go by fast.

The Picasso Museum in Malaga sits in a palace

The museum occupies the Palacio de Buenavista, a 16th-century Renaissance mansion, with its patios and wooden ceilings. The building is part of the visit: you move from bright rooms to shaded courtyards, and this old setting answers the 20th-century art beautifully. The stop is worth it for the architecture alone.

Tower of the Palacio de Buenavista, home of the Picasso Museum in Malaga, in an old-town lane

The secret beneath your feet

This is the part almost no one expects. Beneath the museum, an archaeological site brings up the Malaga before Malaga: a Phoenician wall dated to the 7th century BC, then Roman and Arab remains. Going down a few metres, you pass from Picasso to the first walled city. Art and archaeology in a single visit: for me, that’s what makes this museum unique among Picasso museums.

Remains of the Phoenician wall beneath the Picasso Museum in Malaga, a basement archaeological site

Round it off with the Casa Natal

About a ten-minute walk away, on the Plaza de la Merced, Picasso’s birthplace – the Casa Natal – is a separate visit. If the painter moved you at the museum, it’s the lovely way to close the story, where it all began. Between the two you cross some of the prettiest lanes of the old town, with the cathedral steps away and plenty of places to stop for a coffee.

Facade of Picasso's birthplace on the Plaza de la Merced in Malaga

Picasso Museum in Malaga: practical information

The Picasso Museum in Malaga is at Calle San Agustín, 8, a three-minute walk from the hotel. Hours change with the season: in summer, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.; in spring and autumn, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.; in winter, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (last entry thirty minutes before closing). It’s closed on 25 December, 1 and 6 January.

Tickets: €13 full, €11 reduced (over 65s, students under 26) and free for under-17s. Admission is also free for the last two hours on Sundays, plus a few special days during the year. As conditions change, check the date of your visit on the museum’s official website; and in high season, book online to skip the queue, which can be long around midday.

My tip

I like to go late in the afternoon, when the light falls on the patios and the groups have thinned out. And since we’re three minutes away, the best plan is to drop your bags first: many travellers choose us precisely as a hotel near the Picasso Museum – you step out of Casa Beatas and you’re there. Our old-town rooms three minutes from the Picasso Museum let you do everything on foot. A question about today’s hours or the order to visit? Message us on WhatsApp, I’m happy to help.